Same issue with flashing cruise lamp and check engine lamp on but so far no power loss. Code reader showing oxygen sensor problem Looks like others have changed the sensor but it does not fix the problem, will have to look at the gas cap issue thing also Kinda worried with this car used to be my Dad's car but now my sister has it and she is a new driver, the car is not new anymore but this thing has had too many issues since purchase, I have no idea why people say Subaru makes a great car, girlfriends car is a civic and she literally does no maintenance on this thing and it keeps running.
Luck of the draw I guess. This has been a chronic problem for the last 30, miles or so. The check-engine light comes on for no reason and I cannot use the cruise control.
It is an intermittent problem with no solution. Subaru should be ashamed.How to clean elk ivory
The accelerator gave out a few times so far. The first time, I was driving down the street when the accelerator gave out. The engine running yet no thrust on the pedal. Similar to other descriptions here. I pulled over, turned the car off and the accelerator worked when I restarted the car. I thought it was the fuel injection and tried a few things however, I understand there is a problem with the pedal assembly sensor.
Will take it to the dealer. It idles and coasts forward. It sounds as if the gas is depressed, but it is not. The RPMs surge. Then it didn't happen for several months. Then it occurred a couple times over several months. Over the past week, it has occurred every day at least once. My driving frequency and patterns have not changed during that time. After completing the following steps, I was able to restart the car and the gas pedal was then responsive The first attempt consistently fails.
And the second attempt consistently works.So how do you find out what problems are occurring? Any duplicates or errors? It's not us. Don't waste your time wasting ours! If you are interested in advertising a for-profit service, contact us.Izanami top psp 2020
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Vehicle lost all power while traveling 55mph in 4 lanes of traffic. Thankfully I was able to coast over into the left turn lane.
The vehicle would only move forward while in drive and at a slow crawl. I was able to get a large enough window to crawl across the other 2 lanes and crawl into a parking lot. I ended up getting towed from there. They said they repair 1 to 2 of these each month. The internet has many reports of my specific scenario.
This seems like a serious safety concern to me. Something is not right here but no by seems to be doing anything about it. Error code P, lots of people are talking about how Subaru is not fixing or calling out the defect in the accelerator pedal position sensor. I was driving and slowing down as light was red but then it changed to green.When I was driving home after picking the car up, I noticed what felt like a wobble or shudder that seemed to come from the center or right side of the car I couldn't tell which.How to attach casters to steel pipe
It would only happen while accelerating, kicking in at about 20mph and then seeming to go away at about 30mph. It didn't happen at all while coasting, braking, or decelerating.
I didn't feel it in the steering wheel; it was more like something felt through the seat and the car itself, if that makes sense. So I took the car back to the shop the next day, and although the owner of the shop said he drove the car and didn't notice anything, he decided to go ahead and do the job over under warranty just in case they had installed a bad axle or had otherwise "botched" my word, not his the job.
He also rotated and rebalanced the tires on the off chance that's where the issue was. The only additional info I've been able to glean is that it doesn't ever seem to happen when I drive the car first thing in the morning, but starts to happen as the car warms up.
At a complete loss, I crawled under the car and starting looking and poking around for something that might be loose or knocking around. I was particularly interested in determining if there was any play in the U-joints or some kind of damage to the drive shaft. I didn't notice anything except for this--at different points on the drive shaft there are what I assume are balancing weights welded to the shaft.
The drive shaft is painted entirely black, as are the weights, except for this one shiny, bare-metal, square-shaped spot. However, the more I thought about it, the more I wondered And why would it not seem to happen until after the car had been driven for 15 minutes or so and had warmed up? Again, it seems like an out-of-balance drive shaft is going to be apparent regardless of the operating temperature of the car.
So, could I be on the right track? And if so, is the fix as simple as welding a new weight on there?Tkstar tk915 manual
Can this be done with the shaft still on the car? I think Subaru considers the shaft a non-serviceable part, but I don't want to trash and replace an otherwise perfectly good shaft for what seems like a pretty easy fix albeit one that is probably beyond my own abilities. I have a Subaru Outback, 3. No engine codes. I bought it took two years privately. Only at those speeds and only during acceleration.
During light acceleration it isn't noticeable, but hard acceleration particularly on a hill at the car can shake quite violently. It feels like the whole of the front of the car is shaking from side to side.My Outback is the second one that I have purchased. I bought it sight unseen based upon my satisfaction with my Outback. I survived with very minor injuries but alas, the car did not.
I really loved my Outback. I can't say the same about my As soon as I sat in it,I knew it was not the same vehicle. The seats were less comfortable, acceleration was not as good, the side view mirrors have huge blindspots due to the redesign. The windows whistle, The body is less sturdy, the glove box too small,cheap cup holders, donut tire, basically made cheaper.
This is the 3rd one I've owned and it is still the best snow car I've ever driven I ski and regularly go into snow country. It also quite adequately tows my boat. My only gripe is that the current model's "sport automatic" drive is not as smooth as my last one My Outback Wagon has overmiles on it, and has been completely trouble free for 7 years. It drives no differently than it did when it was new. I'd actually kind of like a new car, but it's hard to justify the expense when this one is paid for and is so reliable.
Am 70 years old now, owned some very nice and powerful cars during my life, this one is the most satisfying of them all, by far, especially after replacing the OEM Yokohamas with Michelins see below under "suggested improvements"which actually make the car do what I am waxing about in this review! Have not had a single problem after 6 years and 53K miles. The car is bullet proof, both mechanically and cosmetically. Paint has held up extemely well, very chip resistant. As for traction, the car is unstoppable in snow.
Two foot drifts barely register with the Subie's tenacious AWD and ample road clearance. If you live in or near a snow belt, these cars are at the very top of the food chain.
Best part is performance. It eats Audi A4's for lunch in the stoplight wars. Love it, love it, love it! I plan to hopefully ride it another 6 years. Popular searches. My Account. Outback model: All Outback models 3. Filter by: All ratings 5 stars 4 stars 3 stars 2 stars 1 star.
Only time I've bought a 3rd one. Jon C. Items per page:.The most recently reported issues are listed below. Please also check out the statistics and reliability analysis of the Subaru Outback based on all problems reported for the Outback. The same problem has happened several times over the past several months, randomly, while vehicle is in motion, both on highway and on auxiliary roads at lower speeds.
The car "locked up," and began to decelerate, since no gas was available. The check engine light came on, with the flashing cruise light simultaneously on. Luckily, I was able to move the car across the highway and stop on the shoulder. The car was turned off, and I re-started and drove away. The car again locked up, no gas was available--the car was only able to drift very slowly. I was able to make it to a stop light, which, luckily, was a red signal.
At the stop, I shifted the gear into neutral. I had to restart the car twice, but the problem didn't clear right away. After a few minutes, it did. I have read that it may have been corrected on subsequent year models, but not on the andand dealers don't fix.How to Diagnose a Bad Fuel Pump 1996 Subaru Legacy 2.2L Pt. 2 Diagnose
This is a very serious, dangerous, life-threatening condition. I am afraid to drive my car. Please investigate. Should be a recall.Toyota townace camper
Error code p, lots of people are talking about how Subaru is not fixing or calling out the defect in the accelerator pedal position sensor. I was driving and slowing down as light was red but then it changed to green. I pushed gas and wouldn't allow me to accelerate and check engine light came on.
Cruise light was even blinking. Videos I've been watching talk about fly by wire pedals and how it puts cars into limp mode. Which is what it was doing when I first try to accelerate.
I cleared a lot of codes by doing the cruise button reset which for now turned most lights off but still have limp mode issues when first trying to accelerate after a complete stop. While in motion, rapidly applying the brakes causes check engine light to come on, the cruise control indicator flashes and control of the accelerator pedal lost. The car essentially becomes limp and is not able to receive input from the accelerator pedal at this time. Turning the car off and letting it sit for 30 seconds and then turning the car back on re-provides control to the accelerator pedal.
At this time the check engine light is still on. After a couple of days the check engine light goes off. My local authorized Subaru shop traced the issue to a faulty accelerator pedal sensor. The entire assembly was replaced and the car is operating nominally.
Two two instances where this caused a serious concern was when I was left stranded in the middle of an intersection when a car in front of me slammed on it's brakes and chose to turn right instead of the intended direction of travel straight through the intersection.
The second time was to avoid an animal running across the road in front of the car. In both instances the car was moving at roughly 25mph. No control of engine rpm. Cel and cc illuminated on instrument panel. Put transmission in neutral.
Loss Of Acceleration
Killed ignition switch. Engine shut down. Restarted engine and rpm was normal.During acceleration, it sometimes loses power. Neither can we. In order to try—from afar—to help you figure out this problem, we need more information from you. If not, you could well be looking at a transmission problem.
And, even though it has nothing to do with the problem that you mentioned, I have to ask whether the timing belt has been replaced. At k miles, it is due on the basis of odometer mileage, and it is grossly overdue by about 4 years on the basis of elapsed time. If you have not yet replaced the timing belt, you are in store for MUCH bigger problems than an erratic engine speed.
This car is 13 years old and has been driven over K miles. In addition its been to a mechanic who has apparently done a bunch of stuff. So…you need to fill folks in. Just a guess but check the alternator for excessive noise. Also check and clean the ground connections on the transmission and the engine. Neither do I see it as a grounding problem.
A new air filter, new spark plugs, and setting the ignition timing.
Until all that has been done, it is hard to say what is happening. Loss of power on acceleration can be a symtom of retarded ignition timing.
Check Engine Light On/Cruise Control Blinking/No Acceleration
A clogged fuel filter could cause this symptom for example. The dart would choose the diagnosis. The speed of the engine and the car goes up and down with the tach needle. So, the car is lurching a little bit when it loses power.
The transmission was rebuilt about a year ago, so I did ask the the transmission guy to check it again, and he found no problems. The car has been consistently maintained, including the periodic inspections, replacement of parts that wear, etc. Except for rebuilding the transmission about a year ago, the maintenance has been unremarkable. The check engine light did come on once.
The mechanic checked it out, said the trouble code was a clogged fuel filter, which he replaced, and he cleared the code. The last few times the problem occurred, the check engine light did not illuminate.
As for the mechanic, except for the check engine light and replacing a fuel filter, he said he checked the charging system and other systems, and he could find no problem. First off, there is no code for a clogged fuel filter… Does not exsist… So I am going to make a guess that you have a fuel related issue. This is a very tough one to Diag since the car does not do it all of the time.
I would try having a fuel pressure gauge hooked up and try to have the car act up, see if you are looseing pressure at that time.
On the flip side you may want to try spraying down your ignition system with water and see if you are arching out somewhere some times causeing a miss which should thow a code, but may not. See if you can dig up an invoice or something with an actual code printed on it. The question about maintenance is a question about specifics. Air filter? What kind of shop rebuilt the transmission? Do you know any of those details? Did the rebuild also come with a new torque converter?
Or is it still the original? What happened that led to the rebuild?I own a Subaru Outback 6cyl wagon. To a non-mechanic, it feels like the fuel supply is sputtering. We have had it to the mechanic 5 times 3 times to Subaru dealer and, of course, the problem will not showcase itself during these visits. Only once did the check engine light come on, and that reported a possible problem with the throttle position sensor.
Please help. This car is not safe to drive and we have an upcoming vacation planned. Has the fuel pressure been checked? Intermittent, Oh my lord. Finally someone who knows what I have been going through!!! I have been dealing with this exact same problem for over 6 months and 3 week long trips in to the dealer. I have the extended warranty so they have been doing all my work. The sputtering most of the time can be very mild to the point that I feel that my mind is playing tricks on me.
But I know that I am losing power. I live in southern california and drive the freeways everyday to work. They tell me they have done everything to diagnose it. The last two times they replaced the EGR and my battery. The last time it lurched to a halt on the freeway and the check engine light came on the first time that had happened.
What fault code did you get specifically? Since this post have they figured out the problem? Please please please help… I am at my wits end.
The computer fault code was PO? Hope this helps. What happened when it would begin to sputter and you gave it more gas? Mine lurches worse when I do that. It only seems to get a bit better when I let off the gas and then try again. Did they clear your computer when you took it into the mechanic? I have no idea if they cleared the computer. Good luck. My independent mechanic scanned it and also found a PO He checked online in a mechanics-only forum and found nine posts on this problem.
Seven of the nine were fixed by replacing the TPS. A call to a local Subaru dealer showed they had three TPSs in stock, which he considered high — unless they have replace more than what would be normal. Danny89 July 6,am 9.
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